Groundwork – Why Bother?

by Amy Craske, Holistic Horses

Groundwork for horses can bring huge benefits. — groundwork for horses

If you’ve ever spent anytime doing, watching or learning about groundwork then I’ll bet you think it’s an enormously useful tool for improving or communication with our horses. But if you haven’t, and an awful lot of people just haven’t been introduced to it, you could be quite reasonable in wondering what on EARTH is the point. I mean, its just walking about with your horse, isn’t it? Why would anyone bother wasting time doing that, when they could be riding? What could it possibly do to help?

So, lets think. If you lead out to the field, are you lucky enough to have a horse which calmly follows your every movement and change in speed on the way, and swings himself neatly sideways round the gate so you can close it? Does he never ever spook? Never drag you to the nearest patch of green it sees? Does he plant himself and refuse to move, no matter how hard you lean on that rope? Never nibble your sleeve and crowd your personal space? Does he load perfectly into the trailer every time? Do you feel COMPLETELY safe next to that half ton animal?

If you have that perfect creature, then fabulous, you’re very lucky, we’re all enormously jealous. And some horses and ponies just ARE very good at working out what’s expected of them, or may have had some very good training when they were young. But if your horse does any of the things mentioned above, or something else which causes a problem, groundwork can definitely help you. There does seem to be, amongst some people in the horse world, this feeling that horses just ought to be able to DO this stuff instinctively. They should KNOW to walk quietly next to you, despite that delicious looking patch of grass over there, or despite their field mate flinging itself inside out and upside down twenty feet away. And in my own early years with horses, I’d have counted myself as one of those people! But often they just DON’T, they’re too busy being a horse and not a robot. Would you expect a Great Dane puppy to walk to heel impeccably without any training? Of course not, but we do sometimes expect the same of horses. Of course, it goes without saying that its worthwhile investigating any possible physical cause for any negative behaviour you are experiencing, but sometimes it can be down to a lack of understanding and communication between horse and handler.

So let’s give ourselves a test:

Can you and your horse walk together, matching speeds, without either of you dragging the other around?

Can you easily turn both left and right, without wrestling their head around (we’ll have no Zoolanders here!)?

Could you lead from both sides?

Are you able to back your horse up a few steps without having to poke them in the chest?

Can you move your horse’s hindquarters away from you from a simple touch or voice cue? And the same for its shoulders?

Will he stand quietly for a few minutes, without you being dragged to the nearest grass or fighting to keep him still?

Do you both respect each other’s personal space, with no shoving, nibbling or headbutting?

Does your horse load and unload calmly and easily?

Would you be happy to take that horse for a walk, in hand, around one of your usual hacking routes, and feel safe and in control?

So, what if you failed the test?

If any of those things is a bit of a struggle, then it is well worth spending a bit of time on groundwork to improve your communication and control, and your safety. If you know an instructor which specialises in it, it’s a really good investment to have some lessons. Or if you’d rather not, or funds are tight, get a friend to video you working and see if you can be your own teacher.

Really focus on what your whole body is doing and how your horse responds to you. There are many methods out there (Intelligent Horsemanship is a good place to start!) but you need to find what suits you and your horse best. Groundwork is an incredibly useful thing to spend time on, and I hope I’ve given you a few ideas here. And that’s without even mentioning using it to prepare youngsters, introduce lateral work, develop muscle strength and fitness, pole work or long reining…the list goes on!

About the Author..

Amy Craske is a freelance instructor and behaviour trainer based in east Norfolk, specialising in helping people improve their relationships with their horses. She is training with Intelligent Horsemanship and Ride With Your Mind, and is in the process of becoming accredited with both organisations. She is also part of the Concordia International Pony Club team, and can be found on Facebook at Amy Craske – Holistic Horses, and online at amycraskeholistichorses.wordpress.com.

Taking on Rescue Hens – What to Expect

rescue hens, ex-batts, bhwt, chicken, poultry,

If you are taking on ex-battery rescue hens they will have lived in hot, cramped conditions. Many will have lost a lot of feathers and their combs will be pale and flaccid (in order to help lose heat) They will have had artificial light for at least 18 hours a day, will never have seen grass or outside, and will only have ever eaten layers crumb.

1 – A suitable Home – firstly, you will need to provide a home for your hens. If you hope to have just a coop, with them free ranging in the garden, you will still need a run to keep them safe for the first couple of weeks and so they can learn where ‘home’ is.

2 – Collection Day – Your rescue hens are likely to have had a very stressful 24 hours. They may have already travelled a long distance from farm to rehoming centre, before travelling from centre to their new home with you. They will have had little, if anything to drink or eat and the stress of the situation may have led them to become quite feisty and even aggresive. If you have very young children, it may be best to keep them away until your hens have had time to settle. Being pecked on day one isn’t a great start to their relationship!

3 – Once you are home – Make sure you see them all drinking and eating. If it is late, it is especially important to make sure they eat before going to bed. Food in their crops will provide energy and help keep them warm through the night. Your hens will have only ever eaten crumb. The rescue centre will probably advice you to continue with crumb until they settle, but I have never had a problem with them going straight onto pellets – they are usually just grateful to have food they don’t have to fight over!

4 – Expect to have to lift your girls to bed for the first few nights. They won’t understand that there is a nice warm coop waiting up the ladder, and will probably just huddle down together in the corner. Once you have lifted them in they usually get the hang of going to bed by themselves within a week.

5 – Day 1 – It is wonderful to watch your girls explore your garden for the very fist time. Watching them instinctively scratch at the grass and flap and stretch their wings is hugely heart warming! You will probably find some eggs too! Keep a close eye on them for a few days as the great outdoors is completely alien to them, and the more often they see you, the quicker they will learn that you are friend not threat.

6 – Will your hens be warm enough? The BHWT advise that even hens with very few hens will be ok, unless it is unusually cold. Just ensure they eat just before going to bed and give them a thick bed. They advice against jackets and jumpers as they are inclined to get caught in them and they can cause more trouble than they solve. Feed a good protein rich diet (Super Seeds are the ideal treat for rescue hens) and within a few weeks you will see new feathers growing.

7 – If you have hens already, it is best to introduce your new girls at night. Expect some squabbles for a few days as they re-establish their pecking order and keep some poultry-safe antiseptic spray to hand in case of any injury. I have never had any issues when introducing new birds but they have plenty of room and I always have several food stations so no one has to share. Even your new girls may fight with one another as they may never have met before.

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It is not just ex-battery hens who have a very short life. Commercial free-range birds are also only kept for 13 – 18 months. You may be able to buy a few from your local free-range egg producer. We have had many this way. They are usually in better condition than ex-batts but still in much need of tlc.

For further information on rescue hens, visit the British Hen Welfare Trust

Wha’t the difference between Activated and Non-Activated Charcoal?

charcoal for dogs, charcoal for horses, charcoal for chickens. non-activated charcoal

Nutritional charcoal comes in two forms – activated charcoal and non-activated charcoal. But what is the difference?

Activated charcoal is where ordinary charcoal has been treated to increase its surface area. This may be carried out by physical activation using gasses and super high temperatures or chemical activation. The result is a highly porous charcoal with a massive surface area which acts a bit like a sponge. As activated charcoal is so porous there is a danger that it will take out some of the good stuff as well as the bad. This includes medicines as well as vitamins and nutrients which could have a detrimental effect if fed long term.

Non-activated charcoal is exactly how the carbonated wood comes out of the kiln. By it’s very nature, it is still very adsorbent, but not as porous as the activated version. This means it can be fed on a more long-term basis without the risk of flushing out important nutrients in the diet.

What makes our Britain’s Best Charcoal different?

1 – Britain’s Best Charcoal is not activated. It is a traditionally made, natural product without the involvement of chemicals or modern science. Therefore, it has a more gentle, natural, effect and is more suitable for long term use. It wouldn’t be the first choice for treating an acute poisoning, but as it isn’t so porous you won’t be losing vitamins from the diet when feeding everyday.

2 – Our product is made from sustainably sourced hardwood in England. Most other charcoal in the UK (whether activated or not) is made from imported wood and coconut shells. Transporting wood around the globe just for making charcoal supplements obviously has a massive environmental impact!

3 – Our charcoal is a truly artisan product, made by hand to exacting standards.

What is it for?

🐎 For Horses:

Feed Charcoal to horses with a sensitive gut – they could be twitchy, stressy and generally uncomfortable around the gut area, ex-racehorses are particularly prone to this. They could have loose droppings as a result of a change in feed or routine, or have habits such as crib biting or soil eating. These horses are often difficult to keep weight on and fussy feeders with feisty or ‘hot’ temperaments.

🐕 For dogs:

Charcoal is great for dogs with a sensitive tummy. It helps to prevent flatulence and soothe the gut, making it a great natural choice for dogs prone to upset tummies. It can help those dogs who are difficult to keep weight on and picky eaters. Most dogs find it palatable, just mix it with a damp feed.

🐔 Chickens:

If you have ever had a bonfire in the garden, you may have seen your chickens pecking around in the ash. Charcoal sweetens the crop and maintains a healthy digestive system. It also promotes weight gain and egg production. As charcoal helps to adsorb ammonia it improves the environment within their coop by improving air quality.

We offer three products containing charcoal…

Learn more about our Britain’s Best Charcoal here

Learn more about Chirpy Chicken

Learn more about Cheer Up Chicken

What is Sour Crop?

sour crop, hens, chickens, poultry, free range, bhwt

If you keep chickens, you are bound to have come across the term ‘sour crop’. It is one of the most common chicken ailments. Here is what you need to know:

What is the Crop?

The crop is part of the bird’s digestive system. It is a small pouch in the chest, sitting to the right of the breast bone. The food is stored in the crop before moving on to the gizzard where it is ground down ready for absorption. In the mornings your birds’ crops will be empty, but after a day eating you can feel that it is full up again.

Sour Crop

Sour Crop is caused by a Candida yeast infection. It can cause thickening of the crop wall that makes a blockage more likely. One of the indicators of the disease is foul smelling breath, like sour milk, hence its name. Sour crop causes weight loss and even death as the bird cannot eat or digest its food properly.

What causes Sour Crop?

The candida yeast are naturally part of the microflora, it is only when they take over the healthy bacteria that they cause a problem. This could be due to poor diet, damage to the crop, impaction of foods and worm infestation. Conditions that damage the healthy bacteria allow the candida to grow. Dirty conditions increase the risk, as does a course of antibiotics, which also kill the good bacteria and therefore upset the natural balance of microflora.

The Symptoms:

As well as looking generally unwell, your chicken may be reluctant to eat. It’s crop could be full in the morning, suggesting that yesterday’s food is still blocked in the crop. If a sour white liquid is secreted from its mouth the condition has reached an advanced stage.

Treatment:

There are several online recommendations for massaging the crop and withdrawing food, but you should always contact your Vet first. Fungicidal medication may be required (anti-biotics are not effective).

Prevention:

Always ensure your hens have access to fresh drinking water
Keep their living conditions clean and free from faeces
Only feed fresh food
Limit starchy foods like bread or pasta as these can block the crop (especially as hens tend to love them and eat too much at once! High starch foods are also poor nutritionally)
Feed grit for a healthy digestive system. (see Gastro Grit)
Feeding cider vinegar is good for promoting the healthy bacteria and maintaining the correct acidity in the gut. (See Pure Devon Cider Vinegar, which is unfiltered and full of all the good stuff)

Mud Fever – Causes, Treatment & Prevention

mud fever, horses, muddy horse, rain scald, scratches

There is no getting away from it – winter is coming and soon the mud will return. Here is all you need to know about mud fever in horses…

The Cause of Mud Fever –

Mud Fever is caused by a bacteria called dermatophilus congolensis. This bacteria is also responsible for Rain Scald. The bacteria lives in soil and on the skin of our horses, but when the skin becomes weakened by continuous wet conditions, and if there are any small scratches and wounds, the bacteria can enter the body and cause an infection.

However, mud fever isn’t just a skin problem. The reason why some horses get it and others don’t is down to the immune system. Some horses are more sensitive to the bacteria, and their body is less able to fight it off. This may be a natural trait, or they may have other conditions which are putting the immune system under pressure (such as a dust allergy, cough, age, poor diet, hard training schedule etc). A poor immune system will make them more prone to mud fever.

How to Treat Mud Fever –

The reason why Mud Fever is so difficult to treat is because you have to keep your horse out of the mud. Easier said than done! Most vets will tell you that you need to remove the scabs. The scab forms a nice little protective cover allowing the bacteria to thrive underneath. Removing the scabs is painful and whether you can do it or not depends on your horse. Applying aqueous cream and then wrapping in cling film before bandaging will help to soften them. Washing in medicated shampoo – and drying thoroughly, and then using Veterinary prescribed creams such as Flamazine are very effective. It is also important to ensure that your horse is in optimum health to help him to naturally fight off the bacteria for himself. Feeding a supplement rich in anti-oxidants, Such as Skin Saver, will support the immune system and help maintain healthy skin.

How to Prevent Mud Fever

As mud fever is so difficult to treat, it is vital to try to prevent it from taking hold in the first place. You should do this from the outside AND the inside. Regularly checking the legs and pasterns is vital. Whether you should or shouldn’t wash the legs regularly is much debated. It may be best to dry the legs as quickly as possible and then gently brush the mud off. There are many barrier creams and turnout boots on the market, but if the legs are not spotless underneath they could end up harbouring bacteria or even rubbing and weakening the skin further. Feeding a balanced diet and a supplement to support the immune system and promote healthy skin may help to stop the condition from taking hold.

But what if you are doing everything and it still isn’t getting any better?

Mud Fever is similar to other conditions, and it is also very easy to get secondary infections. If you are not seeing an improvement contact your Vet. Conditions like vasculitis, mites and photosensitivity will produce similar symptoms but require a different treatment regime.

Could you be our Brand Ambassador?

The Little Feed Company is looking for a Brand Ambassador! To be considered please send your entry to us by Friday 5th October.

The Ambassador will:

Be over 16
Live in mainland UK (South West England would be an advantage but not essential)
Compete with either horses or dogs at an affiliated / regional level
Be able to demonstrate that they can represent the company values of The Little Feed Company
Be heavily involved in their sport in their local area, either as a competitor and / or as atrainer.
Have a great presence on social media with good engagement with their followers. Perhaps their own blog or youtube channel.

The Little Feed Company Offers:

The Little Feed Company agrees to offer sponsorship to The Ambassador in the form of free products in return for promoting & supporting The Little Feed Company brand.
The Ambassador will be given a 6 month trial, and if successful this will be extended for a further 6 months.
The Little Feed Company will give their Ambassador products for use on their horses / dogs and other animals up to the value of £500 (at retail price) over a 12 month period. This will be split into two, so £250 for the first 6 months, with £250 for the second 6 months should the trial be successful.
The Little Feed Company will provide The Ambassador with a few items of branded clothing & saddle cloths to be worn at events & training sessions when ever possible.

In return, The Ambassador will:

Promote The Little Feed Company brand on his social media streams
Wear branded clothing and saddle cloths at events & training sessions, when appropriate.
Provide latest results and any other news for The Little Feed Company to post on social media etc
Provide good quality copyright free images for The Little Feed Company to use.
Provide 1 or 2 blogs or vlogs for exclusive use by The Little Feed Company each month. Subject matter / topics to be discussed & agreed beforehand. Examples would be training tips, how to? articles, interviews, competition reports etc
Not accept any sponsorship / ambassordorship from any other company who may compete directly with The Little Feed Company (i.e no other supplement company) or promote another supplement company on his social media platforms.

How to Enter:

Send us an email, a letter or a message via facebook. Send us photos or videos and make your application stand out! Tell us where you are based and include links to your social media pages (if you have them) Contact us before October 5th to be considered.

info@thelittlefeedcompany.co.uk

Why do Chickens Need Grit?

Chickens need two different types of grit for two different reasons…

1. Chickens need grit because they don’t have teeth!

When we eat, our teeth grind the food down into small particles before swallowing. This not only starts the digestion process by mixing the food with saliva, but the smaller particles of food are easier for our body to digest and break down. Without teeth, chickens are swallowing their food whole – you have probably seen the excitement when they try to swallow an enormous worm – it is quite a challenge!

After swallowing, the chicken’s food enters the Crop. This is like an enlarged storage compartment. From there, the food enters the Gizzard (the equivalent of our stomach) The Gizzard is a muscular pouch which mixes and churns the food at the start of the digestive process. When we feed our chickens grit, and the grit reaches the Gizzard, it is used to help grind the food into smaller particles, just like our teeth would have done. Chickens therefore need to eat grit and small stones to aid the digestion of their food.

2. Your hens need soluble & insoluble grits in their diet:

We have already mentioned that there are two reasons why chickens need grit, and two types of grit. For digesting food, chickens need mainly insoluble grits which will hang around in the gizzard for grinding. But, chickens also need soluble grits which are a source of calcium. Soluble grit, such as oyster shell, will dissolve in the digestive system releasing dietary calcium. Chickens need plenty of calcium as this is what gives the egg shell its strength. Without extra calcium their body could reabsorb calcium from their bones, putting their overall health at risk. If your chickens are not laying as often as helped, or are producing soft shelled eggs on a regular basis , they could be lacking calcium in their diet.

It is also important to remember that your chickens need extra calcium, and protein, while moulting to help with the growth of new feathers – hens often stop laying while moulting as all their energy goes into feather growth rather than egg production. Supplementing their diet can help speed this process so there are less days without eggs.

Read the review of Skin Saver by The Fair Weather Rider…

SKIN SAVER REVIEW

jenniferDuhig June 26, 2018 No comments

Sweet itch, allergies, whatever it is – owning a horse with itchy skin is an emotional journey to say the least. From sheer frustration at the inability to find a miracle cure to the upset at seeing your four legged friend tearing their skin apart; it’s heartbreaking.

I’ve experienced this with Steve (or Steven when he’s really pissing me off!). Steve is best described as the dream horse I never knew I wanted. He’s a little pocket rocket in the form of a Welsh D (Trevallion blood lines) x Thoroughbred. He was NOT on my wish list and most certainly not on my to do list. I wasn’t looking for another horse but my then 6 month old foal Danny was in the field with my 12 year old Clydesdale X and Welsh A pony, neither of whom wanted to frolic of any kind. I felt sorry for Danny and did the only logical thing to do, especially when there happens to be a spare stable on your yard, and that was go in search of a “temporary” companion. I use the term temporary loosely for the simple fact that a year and a half down the line and Steve is quite obviously still here and looks to be going nowhere soon…

Steve was a totally blind purchase from a stud in Wales and completely wow’d me when he came trotting off the lorry, full of beans after a mammoth journey from Tregaron. After a little persuasion, he finally realised that us humans were fab things and made himself firmly at home – sometimes a little too much but we won’t go there. His first spring/summer as a 1 year old were when his problems began. As you can see from the image above, his itching was a little more than the usual. The hair was ripped from his skin and his skin left red raw. Over the course of the summer, despite eliminating certain food groups, products and more, this cycle would continue over and over again until winter arrived. Steve was beside himself until the cooler days when it just disappeared. Vets decided the infamous sweet itch was the culprit and we were to manage it year in, year out forever more.

As any owner of a horse with sweet itch will know, it’s not something to take lightly. It’s a hideous allergy that doesn’t just look horrible but can quit literally change a horses personality. So you can imagine my desperation when I spotted The Little Feed Company‘s post on Instagram in search of itchy horses. They were trialling a new supplement aimed at healing the horse from within. I messaged them instantly and after sending images across, Steve was placed on the trial. Forward to a few weeks later and two bags (a months supply) of Skin Saver arrived at my door. I was sceptical to say the least but desperate to try anything considering the onset of his itching had begun already (we were in March – just). Life being the way that it is, nothing’s simple and putting the supplement in his feed was just far to easy as Steve decided that in actual fact, he didn’t want to eat it. Over the course of the next few weeks, his itching, as predicted increased and we were met with this summers first scab (pictured above). After speaking with the lovely Hermione from The Little Feed Company, I introduced it once again to his feed, this time in much smaller doses than first recommended. This time, the super fussy itchy one actually began to eat it and eat it he did. It took just a few days for him to accept it at the full dose rate.

The scab continued to worsen for the first week or so of him being on it and as I usually am, just five minutes into a diet, deemed it no good. However, as my father would say, “O ye, of little faith” because just two weeks later and his serious itching had stopped. The scab stopped spreading and stopped looking so angry. Over the course of the next two weeks, I found the scab and site of the wound began to shrink too. It began healing and now, in the middle of summer (almost July) and as you can see from the pictures below, his chest is super shiny and super clear. He still itches every so often but then again, I love a back scratch every now and then so I don’t see it an issue.

I wouldn’t say we’re completely in the clear as his tail still looks like a hot mess but that may just be him! Who knows with this guy, he loves to throw a curve ball all the live long day but hey, we have no more scabbed chest, no more incessant itching that destroys fence posts and stable walls and what’s more, I now have a very handsome and super calm two year old who looks and feels great. If your horse or pony is suffering at the hands of sweet itch or any other allergy, I highly recommend. In fact, I cannot sing its praises highly enough, so much so, I’ll be investing in the 5kg tub next!

Thank you to The Little Feed Company for allowing Steve onto the trial! We couldn’t be happier! Now just to get over his latest adventure of puncturing his leg….blimming horses, who’d have them?

Read more from The Fair Weather Rider here

Turmeric or Glucosamine?

Joint Supplements for Dogs – Which is best?

There are so many joint supplements for dogs on the market so it can be difficult to choose the best one for your pet. Many are glucosamine based, but Turmeric is also rising in popularity. How do you choose the best for your dog?

Glucosamine Based – usually in combination with other ingredients such as MSM, Chondroitin, Boswellia, Green lipped mussel etc..

Ingredients such as glucosamine, green lipped mussel and chondroitin support the cartilage health. They also help the body to repair and maintain healthy joints. If your dog is middle aged or younger but very active, these ingredients will support healthy joints. MSM and Boswellia help the body maintain its natural anti-inflammatory mechanisms. MSM also supports soft tissue repair. These ingredients will help an elderly dog feel more comfortable, but a very old dog may benefit less from the ingredients which support repair.

Turmeric Based –

Turmeric has become hugely popular as a joint supplement for dogs. It is a natural anti-inflammatory and can support joint comfort. It also helps to flush out toxins and can be beneficial for a number of health issues. Unlike glucosamine and chondroitin, the body won’t use turmeric to help repair wear and tear to joints. For this reason it may be better for older dogs, when the priority is to maintain comfort and quality of life. If there are other health concerns to consider, such as a weak immune system, turmeric can also support these too, along with general health and vitality.

Conclusion:

Glucosamine based supplements actually support joint repair and are the first choice for a middle aged dog, or very active dog. Turmeric based products are great for maintaining comfort and supporting health and vitality for older pets. It is possible to feed them both together, but check with the manufacturer first.

Learn more about our joint supplements for dogs:

T.O.P. Dog – turmeric, oil and pepper supplement for dogs

Bounce – glucosamine based joint supplement for dogs

Does my horse / pony have laminitis?

Most horse owners will have heard of laminitis and be aware of the dangers, but how do you know if your horse or pony has it? The quicker laminitis is diagnosed the more likely he will make a full recovery. So, what symptoms should you look for?…

Pain

Laminitis is painful. Your horse’s feet will hurt so he will be reluctant to move. He may shift his weight from one foot to another and look dull and listless. As his owner you know if your horse is acting differently – do his eyes look dull with a sad, dis-interested expression on his face?

Digital pulse

During laminitis the blood circulation to your horse’s feet is restricted. This creates a pulse that can be felt at the back of the fetlock joint. With some healthy horses it can be difficult to detect a pulse at all, in others you will feel it gently, even when they are well. The key for a laminitic, is that the pulse will be ‘bounding’. It isn’t faster, but feels stronger due to the blood constriction pushing the blood back up the artery. Monitor your horse’s pulse so you know what it feels like normally and can therefore detect if it changes. Make sure you are not just detecting your own pulse in your thumb – the horse’s pulse is much slower than ours! (there are lots of online videos showing you how to detect the pulse)

The Laminitic Stance

The typical laminitis stance is where the horse leans back to take the weight on his hind quarters, with his painful front feet stretched out ahead. This is easily recognizable but other symptoms may help you detect the condition before it reaches this stage (and if he has laminitis in all four feet, you won’t see the typical stance)

Warm Hooves

Heat in the feet, in combination with the other symptoms, is a key indicator of laminitis. If heat is the only symptom it is more likely to indicate a hoof infection.

Movement

Laminitics are often ‘pottery’ on their feet because it hurts to put their weight on them. Their gait gives the impression that they are walking on hot coals. He may take short, quick steps his movement will be worse on hard ground rather than soft. It is important not to force your horse to walk if he doesn’t want to.

If your horse has any combination of symptoms from the above, take action immediately. Keep him stabled on a soft bed, feed soaked hay with no concentrates, and call the Vet. The sooner laminitis is diagnosed, the more successful the outcome will be.

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